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They adore being in the family eatery, and happily spend their summer holidays helping out in nanu’s greenhouse, assisting in the time-consuming process of making his homemade specialities: including Benny’s legendary sun-dried tomatoes, pickled gbejnet and stuffed olives.Moreover, it is this personal passion for Maltese cuisine that Benny injects into Ta’Marija.

(Whisper being the name of Benny’s favourite character in a James Bond novel.) This was a dining out godsend for the island, due to the difficulty of obtaining quality cuts of meat at reasonable prices.

Whole school holidays would be spent in the kitchen, learning authentic Maltese dishes, which would be cooked repeatedly until recipes are personalised and perfected.

Dishes which combine the seductive flavours of North Africa, and the culinary panache of European chefs.

Which is what Ben Muscat Snr (known as Benny), the founding owner and ever-present host of the oldest, and most-popular Maltese restaurant on the Island, Ta’Marija, is doing.

Just like how his nanu Tonna taught him what fruit and vegetables are harvested in what season, the name of every cut of meat, and species of local fish (and his nana how to then turn these culinary delights into magical dishes in the kitchen), he is now guiding his grandchildren through their gastronomic education.

Benny and Marija were also known to join in the sing-alongs, often started by the American servicemen, many of whom turned out to be well-known performers in their homeland. And Whisper was popular with local politicians, ambassadors, and dignitaries, including the ex-Prime Minister of Malta, Dr George Borg Olivier, as well as the expat military.

Stars of the day also dropped by for dinner when they were passing through, the steakhouse having hosted the James Bond actor Roger Moore, comedian Ernie Wise, and the infamous Cleo Laine for dinner.

If Benny is the heart of the restaurant, she is the soul; their evident love for each other creating an electric atmosphere that makes dining at Ta’ Marija an unforgettable dining experience.

Benny did not dream about becoming a restaurateur when he was a young boy growing up in the petite village of Mtarfa, even though his family ran a successful pork business and nurtured his cooking skills. And, after studying Electronics and Telecommunications at London University, he returned to Malta and started lecturing Engineering at the Malta College of Arts, Science, and Technology.

Whilst he stays in the kitchen to make sure every dish is perfect, appearing to guide meal choices, Marija greets and serves their guests in her energetic and graceful way.

Always well-dressed, and strikingly beautiful, she floats around the floor, telling stories in several languages, radiating happiness with her infectious smile and, at the end of the night, gathers her family for an impromptu post-dessert singsong on the dance floor.

The young teacher’s social life was hectic, yet he always finished his legendary pub-crawls with a visit to his favourite drinking hole: the New Bar Inn in Mosta.

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